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Delia Cai
Sep 15, 2025
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Is food getting funky again? I went to dinner the other night at FOOD, the artist Lucien Smith’s revival of the late artist Gordon Matta-Clark’s SoHo restaurant of the ‘70s. Had been expecting the usual hedonistic NY happy meal fare but instead had to pick from a tiny menu of what I (granted, a fairly uneducated eater) would describe as…variations on ma…

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